March 31, 2010

giant turtles


there are different species of giant tortoises on each island. their population started to decrease ever since man inhabited this place, even to the point that some of them are already extinct. in san crsitobal for example, there were several thousands of them many years ago, and now there are 6000 men living on the island and only 1000 turtles. luckily nowadays the conservation centers through out the galapagos have preservation and reproduction programs to help the species grow again.


March 30, 2010

el junco



isn't it terrible when you go to a tourist site to see something and because of fog you can not see a thing when you arrive at the place?? well, apparently el junco is a crater of a volcano that is filled with fresh water during the rainy season. it is the only fresh lake of the islands. we took a taxi to the sight and climed up to see it, just to find it was too foggy to actually see a thing....! oh well, just the ride was quite a trip, plus we saw pictures of what it actually looks like on a sunny day, very pretty indeed!!





March 28, 2010

la loberia

this beach, relatively close to the main town is a great place for surfing. just the path to get there is beautiful. it is full of volcanic rocks and prehistoric looking iguanas. we were lucky to see some surfers out by the breakers and it honestly looked like a world famous place with huge barrel waves; really something beautiful and even scary. we did not even dare to go close, so we simply snorkeled with a group of cruisers we have met along the way and enjoyed an amazing turtle swimming with us!!!



March 27, 2010

puerto baquerizo moreno


this town is the capital of the province of galapagos and it is devoted to fishing and tourisim. today there are 6000 people living in the island but still the town does not look too big. it is actually a very enchanting little place with great wood work throughout the malecon, pretty shops, good restaurants and just about everything we need: laundry, internet, even movie rentals, grocery stores, etc...

the place is full of sea lions they are swimming all over, get on board of the dinguies and boats, and are very friendly with humans, they are trully everywhere and seem not to be scared by us, at all!




March 17, 2010

crossing to galapagos



our longest crossing so far, 10 days and nights from N08°.38’.079 W079°.02’.126 in the perlas islands in panama to S00°.53’.777 W089°.36’.769 in puerto baquerizo moreno, isla san cristobal, galapagos, ecuador. we traveled from one hemisphere to the other and thought we were going to jump in the water and actually swim across the equator, but the truth is that we crossed it at night and neither of us wanted to jump in the dark water at that time, so we crossed the 00° on board the boat dry and warm!






we left on march 17 at noon and had favorable winds for the following couple of days. the first nights were extremely dark and we could not see the moon or starts or anything else. what we did see, was the most amazing fluorescent plankton left by the wake of the boat and also by the dolphins swimming next to us. they looked like ghosts or rather falling starts. this was a truly an unforgettable sight, and even scary before we realized the shinny moving creatures making the noise and color were actually dolphins!

after the fourth day we were more settled into the rocking and rolling of the boat and generally the life on board. by the fifth day we started to lose the wind as we approached the convergence zone. this is where the north trade winds meet the winds from the south resulting in a gap of several hundred miles of no wind at all. thankfully our beloved little yanmy engine did not let us down and motored us away form this zone in the next 3 days.



finally on the last couple of days, the breeze picked up, and we found the equatorial current that pushed us towards our destination making the boat go at 6 knots with barely 6 knots of wind. this last part was a very relaxed sail with beautiful sunsets and clear moonlights every night.

on friday the 26 we saw land and on saturday march 27 we arrived early in the morning to the amazing galapagos. as we cleared the entrance channel through turquoise blue waters we saw many sea lions and rays and saw the breakers at a distance, all making for an amazing sight.



the fauna of the pacific is unbelievable. we saw schools of dolphin, many many many (really lots) of flying and jumping rays, sea lions and several birds. We enjoyed the big and calm swell and were amazed of by how little boats we saw. We must have seen only 3 or 4 in the entire ten days. we really asked ourselves many times if we had taken a wrong turn somewhere, but I guess not, the route was right on course; I guess this area of the world is just less traveled.




the only disappointment of the entire crossing was the fishing part, or better said, the NO fishing part. unbelievably enough we sailed over 1000 miles in the pacific and did not catch a thing. well, we actually did, we had 5 bites and lost 4 lures. we fished a tiny tuna that was trying to eat a lure bigger that the tuna itself, so we thought this bravery deserved to live and put it back in the water (plus it was really small to eat). later after we arrived and talked to other cruisers about our frustrated attempts to fish and our diet based on canned food, we learned that our nylon was too small. it is made to hold 50 lbs. so imagine the size of the fish we almost, but finally could not get. the good thing is that we now have a 100 lbs nylon which we hope to use on the rest of the pacific crossings.

March 15, 2010

fishing in the nearby islands



esteban is getting better with the spear gun!! the problem is that the waters in the pacific, at least in this area, are very cold and the visibility is poor, but at least we are catching something!!! near contadora there are a few islands, one of them is bartolome and we went a few times by dinghy to catch some food. luckily esteban was with the spear. i tried bottom fishing with no luck, so at least one of us was catching something... i hope the next post will be with a picture of us getting a big tuna in the pacific.. until then... more chicken and canned tuna, i guess.....!

here is a picture of one of those small islands. they are all beautiful and mostly inhabited. fish or no fish the dinghy trips were very nice!!


March 12, 2010

welcome to the ham world


or welcome again, because i was already introduced to the ham world when getting the radio operator licenses back in florida. the truth is that i never really used them and the operation of our single side band radio was limited to the weather reports and some emails.... until we decided to change e-mail providers and our radio was giving us some problmes. it was when we came to contadora looking for Gunther, a ham aficionado and a great person that for three or four days spent hours with us in his house teaching us about the radio we have and how to actually use it. now we can get news on board, talk to other hams all over the world and still get our weather reports as we sail. thank you gunther and suzanne for the wonderful days in your house and the wealth of information you gave us. we will be contacting you from remote areas for sure!!!!

March 11, 2010

contadora, las perlas




contadora is one of the many islands of the perlas archipelago. the islands are 30 miles south from mainland panama. the name contadora is after the spaniards that used this island to count the pearls before they were sent to europe. the island is full of huge houses, little restaurants and pretty beaches. it was a perfect stop to refill on diesel and some food before our trip to galapagos.






March 8, 2010

leaving panama city

believe it or not this is the tide change in our anchorage. what you see in the picture is all covered with water every six hours.


there must be at least a 15 feet change of tide every six hours here…. no wonder why some people have wheels next to the outboards of their dinghies. they might have to roll them out through a newly formed beach…


but tide or no tide we have enjoyed panama city, and literally the city. we have decided to go to the movies and a couple of restaurants and generally do things we might not do for a while. in about a couple of days from the day i am writing this we will sail to las perlas (the last archipelago we will visit in panama) and from there maybe a 10 day sail to galapagos. after that, we will cross the pacific for over a month towards the french polynesia. so not much civilization from now on…. precisely why the cinema has been so wonderful in the last couple of days. i will continue updating the blog. just be patient because I might not have the same internet access for the next few months.

until the next port…!