we left the peaceful waters of the maldives early one morning with little wind and motor sailed nicely for almost 24 hours. after this the winds started to pick up and blow stronger from the north, something we ended up having for the entire rest of the trip until muscat. but what was unbelievable is that sometimes we actually had to sail west, and when we did, the winds came form the west as well… so we gave up. The direction seemed to be coming from wherever we wanted to go… so we patiently tacked our way up the indian coast. on the way we had a very scary encounter with a big ship at night and with no lights… our hearts were beating like crazy… how to know if this is not a mother ship of the pirates, or simply another vessel just as scared of them as we are simply trying to sail across safely??? well we never knew. and the same happened with every single fisherman that approached us. It is impossible to determine who they are and their intentions. so for the entire trip we were stressed and scared.
to top this situation off our water maker broke, so now we had no fresh water on board and we now needed to make more frequent stops in ports just to fill up our water tank. with this new need we decided to stop in malpe a fishing village in india. 
we had a very nice welcome by all the people we saw and were able to get diesel and water and some food in order to continue north, but generally our first impression form this country, which by the way only deteriorated as we moved north was of disappointment of how filthy everything was. maybe we were simply unlucky and stopped at the dirties places of india or maybe india is in fact dirty all over. Whatever it is, we were shocked of the living conditions.
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